I have actually heard that the market average for spa pump motor has to do with 8 years. When the motor goes, you have an option– change just the motor, or purchase the whole pump.
The same with the wet end, or the opposite end of the pump, you could simply change a new damp end onto the existing motor. We have a big stock of parts for spa pumps, to fix nearly any pump problem.
… if you ‘d rather not get your hands unclean, and prefer to just replace the entire pump– motor and wet end, then this post is for you. Here’s ways to replace a typical spa pump, wired into a spa pack.
1. Check the Frame, Horsepower, Voltage & Speed
You do not wish to set up the wrong pump, so get out your reading glasses and a flashlight, and inspect the label on the pump motor. Try to find FR which indicates frame type (48 or 56), HP for horsepower( 1– 5), Voltage (115 or 230) and Speed (single or dual). Change your existing pump with the exact same size and type spa pump.
Pay attention to how the pump discharge is oriented, is it on the side, or on the top? These are two different damp ends. The side discharge spa pump can be turned to various places by loosening up the volute screws, however the center discharge is leading dead center– 12:00.
If you have questions on picking the proper spa pump, please call or email us!
2. Shut off the Power
Do not take possibilities, discover the proper breaker that feeds the spa and shut it off. Use a piece of tape over the breaker so that no one mistakenly turns it back on. After shutting off the breaker, test to be sure that power is off, then you can proceed to dismantle and get rid of the existing pump.
3. Disconnect Old Spa Pump
Start with eliminating the bare copper bonding wire that is connected to the pump. Now, presuming that the spa is drained pipes, or you have valves near to prevent the water from running out, gradually loosen up the union nuts on the inbound and outbound water connections of the spa pump. 1-10 gallons of water will drain pipes out, so be prepared if your spa lies inside.
If your spa pump is bolted to the flooring, utilize a wrench or socket to remove the bolts on the motor footpad.
Once you can move the pump, position it to provide you easy access to the wires coming into the rear of the motor. Open up the cover plate and you will find 3-wires for a single speed pump, and 4-wires for a two-speed spa pump. With a screwdriver, nut driver or needle nose, you can eliminate the wires from their terminal screws, and after loosening the cord clamp on the motor, gently pull the wire cable out from the existing motor.
For a two-speed motor, note or label the high speed and low speed wires, to wire properly to the brand-new motor. Get out your glasses and flashlight once again, you’ll find the terminal screws are labeled in very small print.
4. Connect New hot tub Pump
You’ll discover it much easier to wire the motor prior to you slide the pump underneath the spa. Make similar connections to the brand-new pump. For two-speed motors, low speed is generally Red, typical is White and high speed is Black, and green is of course green. If the wires are not an actual spa pump cable, the colors may be different. Compare the wire color to the markings on the terminal board.
Remove the pump cable clamp from the old motor and screw it into the wire gain access to port of the brand-new motor. Place the pump cord through the clamp, and connect the wires to the terminals.
Tighten up the pump cord clamp where the wires go into the back of the motor, and change the motor end cap or cover.
Next, you can thread on the union nuts to the new spa pump, ensuring that the o-ring is still intact, and has actually not fallen out. Hand tighten the union nuts securely. The final action is to re-secure the bolts that hold the motor foot pad to the floor or base. This assists reduce vibration noise. Utilizing a rubber pad underneath the pump can assist lower it even further.
Finally, reconnect the bare copper bonding wire to the bonding lug on your brand-new spa pump.
5. Evaluating a New Spa Pump
When the plumbing on the pump is tightened up, you can start to fill the spa. Once you have the spa about half full, open the valves and loosen the incoming spa union to permit any air lock to get away, and tighten up securely when water starts to drip. Continue to fill the spa complete, while trying to find any leakages around the new spa pump.
When the spa is complete, switch on the breaker to test your spa pump, running through it’s speeds. Make sure that your heating unit kicks on which everything looks and sounds appropriate.
A relatively easy procedure, however if you require any help in changing spa and hot tub pumps, we have spa techs waiting waiting on your call or e-mail!
No matter which company you purchase you swim spa from they will offer a traditional rigid foam filled spa cover. And just like every other foam filled cover ever made, those panels will eventually begin to saturate with moisture from the steam coming off the spa water, until they are too heavy to lift.
Bar lifters won’t help once the cover becomes too heavy either because you will still have to flop it over the bar while trying not to strain yourself. Then push it off the end of the spa. When the cover is heavy it will either rip itself apart (because the seam of the cover is not built to handle the added weight) or worse it will rip the bar lifter off the sides of your spa potentially causing damage to the spa cabinet.
The SpaCap Swim Spa Covers by contrast, don’t employ foam so there is nothing to soak up the moisture. They are built to stay lightweight and easy to use. Visit SpaCap.com and order one for your swim spa today.